- Hello there!
- Hi! How are you?
- Great. And you? What’s new?
- I couldn’t be better! You know, I’d like to spend a couple of days somewhere peaceful. Do you have any suggestions?
- Yes, go to San Michele del Carso in the municipality of Savogna d’Isonzo, near Gorizia.
- What’s so special about that small, remote village?
- It encapsulates the beauty of the Karst region: the sea views, the caves from the First World War, the nearby border with Slovenia, the houses hidden deep in the woods, the peace and quiet, the gentle breeze, the chirping of birds, the bleating of goats, a life surrounded by nature... the Slovenian tradition...
- And what if I feel like eating something really tasty, traditional, special?
- Go and pay Devetak a visit...
- What’s that? Who are they?
- Devetak is the surname of the family who for the last 5 generations, since 1870, has run this inn which over the years has become a shrine to Karst cuisine. The restaurant is manned by the proprietor Avguštin, his sister Nerina and daughter Sara. In the kitchen, there’s his wife Gabriella, who learned her art from Avguštin’s mother, Michela, for over 17 years. Gabriella (originally from Brescia), is self-taught and passionate about the region’s culinary culture, and she is already teaching her daughter Tatjana the tricks of the trade.
- So what can you eat there?
-The trattoria’s proximity to the borders of Slovenia and Austria has had a marked influence on its culinary traditions. In keeping with the tradition of the typical “gostilna” (local inn), the trattoria offers its clientele the cream of classic Karst dishes from the Slovenian and central European regions, combining them with new flavours of the moment. There’s always fresh bread, home-made, as is the pasta, which is always filled with vegetables from the kitchen garden tended by Avguštin’s father, Renato (who owns a farm with Sara), and his brother-in-law Claudio. And the menu is strictly based on the seasons.
- So tell me, what are the typical dishes?
- Other than the characteristic hand-sliced prosciutto, the most traditional recipes include "Šelinka", which is a minestrone made from celery and pork cooked on a wood-burning stove for at least 6 hours; “mlinzi” (home-made oven-baked pasta); risotto made with a flavoursome cheese from the Karst region known as “Jamar”; “supeta” (chicken stew); Karst kid and lamb; local game served with fruit; Karst-style fillet of beef. Then there are the typical desserts such as "GIBANICA" (Ghibanizza), "ŠTRUKLJI KUHANI" and "BELA POTICA" which have been handed down through the generations… and so much more...
- Do they have any good wines to accompany all of this?
- Of course, you’re spoilt for choice… a lot of thought has gone into the wine list. There are about 600 different wines, with particular attention to those from the region, such as Karst “Kras”, Collio ”Brda”, Isonzo and Valle del Vipacco “Vipavski okoliš” in Slovenia. And they doubtless also have Vitovska and Terrano (the two native Karst wines) as well as other wines from the area.
All these wines are kept in a cellar hollowed out of the Karst stone – an idea conceived by Avguštin’s father…
- So what’s the set-up of this typical restaurant?
- It has 3 rooms seating 18, 25 and 35 respectively, a porch for alfresco lunch and dinner, a tavern where wines and typical products can be sampled, facilities for the disabled, air conditioning and air purifier, and a large attended car park.
- And afterwards, where can I spend the night?
- That’s not a problem! The Devetak family has already thought of that!
The Lokanda (inn) opened in the summer of 2007 and was the former barn which has now been converted into 8 independent rooms, decorated in the traditional Karst style, with all the comforts.
- Thank you, my friend. I think I’ll take your advice and spend some time in the Karst region so that I can relax, savour the traditions of old tradition and escape from reality!
|